Towering Torres del Paine – Day 1 of the ‘W’ hike

Day 1 – Refugio Torres to the base of Torres del Paine and back (21km, approx 9 hrs)

The day was warm, bright and sunny as we headed off on our first day of the ‘W’, the righthand side. The beginning section of the trail was steep, climbing rocks at first then a narrow shale path above a river gorge.

Looking towards Valle Ascensio

Rio Ascensio created by the run off from glaciers.

Hence we were pretty hot and sweaty by the time we reached our first stop at Campamento Chileno 2 hours later. There we bumped into fellow travellers we met in our hostel in El Chaltén who were heading down on their last day of the hike. We also saw Sarah again and shared some chocolate eggs as it was Easter Sunday.

Crossing the bridge to Campamento Chileno (peeking out from the trees), a small Refugio and campsite now closed as it was nearing the end of the hiking season when we visited the park.

Some of the working horses in the park we saw during our visit. They were at Chileno Refugio taking away the final stores before its winter closure.

The next section of the trail passed through a beautiful forest with glimpses of the icy river below as it tumbled over silvery rocks.

One of the park maps and a cheeky park guard who helped us along the hike.

Autumn colours

A burnt and twisted tree, like a natural sculpture.

The views on leaving the forest, near Campamento Torres.

We stopped for a quick snack for an energy boost before the final push to the base of the towers.

Jon really loving his cereal bar!

Very quickly the trees disappeared and the path got very steep and rocky. Our walking poles came into their own as we clambered up the winding path. Here and there it dived behind boulders and we started to get glimpses of the tips of the towers.

The tips of the towers just peeking up at the top of the photo.

After 45 minutes we made it to the mirador. It was so worth the steep climb as the view was breathtaking. The three silver towers stood side by side in front of a duck egg blue coloured lake, ringed by a wall of silver rock. Ice covered their base, lit up by the afternoon sun and we ate our lunch in enjoying their spectacular beauty.

The gorgeous, icy lake at the base of the Torres.

The return hike was just as beautiful. In the rocky path below the towers we were fortunate to spot a fox basking in the sunshine. The clear skies continued as we made our descent, filling the valley with gentle light. We saw very few people on our descent and enjoyed the peaceful scenery as the sun descended in the west.

Our final view of the mountains before dusk.

By the time we neared our Refugio dusk had arrived along with caracaras beginning their nightly hunt. Fortunately the hares hiding in the long grasses were quick enough to run away as we passed by in search of our own meal.

After dinner we spent the evening chatting to Rosie and Helen, Australian sisters celebrating a significant birthday with a hiking holiday in Patagonia. We also met a lovely family from The Lake District taking their 9 year old daughter on a once in a lifetime trip during her Easter holidays, though I think they were enjoying the hiking far more than she was!

Then after reading a few chapters of our book (Game of Thrones, far too addictive but I like to think that Patagonia looks a bit like Westeros for those of you in the know) we retired our weary limbs to bed.

Towering Torres del Paine – before the ‘W’

Bright and early we took the 7am bus from Puerto Natales and travelled 115km to the Torres del Paine National Park. After paying our fees at the Ranger station, watching a very serious video by Conaf (the Chilean National Forest Corporation) and collecting our maps we headed on another bus which took us through the park to our first Refugio of the hike.

The bumpy bus journey gave us the first of many spectacular views of the park and collective oohs and aahs were heard when we got a glimpse of the mountains that give the park it’s name. Vicuñas trotted along side the road and birds of prey soared overhead and it was safe to say we were very excited about the next few days ahead.

The towers in the distance on the right with a collection of the wonderful signs throughout the park which prevented us from getting lost.

We had decided to hike the ‘W’ trek. This is aptly named by the shape the trail makes as you hike along the three main valleys of the park.

Rather than camping and having to hike with all our equipment and food for the entire 5 days we opted to stay in a Refugio each night. The first two nights at Refugio Torres, the third at Refugio Cuernos (www.fantasticosur.com). The last night we planned to stay at Mountain Lodge Paine Grande (www.verticepatagonia.com)

You can start from either side of the park, we chose to hike from east to west. As we arrived mid afternoon we decided to start the ‘W’ in the morning, so after leaving most of our things at the Refugio we went on a warm up hike of 10km towards the Seron campsite.

The afternoon was warm and sunny and we enjoyed the views towards the lakes in the southern part of the park. It was also a good opportunity to try out our trekking poles that we had hired from Erratic Rock.

A view towards the lakes in the south east part of the park. The main mountains are hidden from view on this section of the trail, a great for tomorrow’s hike.

One of many silver trees in the park. They look bare due to Forrest fires burning off their bark.

For the next two nights we were staying in Refugio Torres, a lovely (if expensive) wooden building at the eastern edge of the park. Luckily the beds were comfy and the dinner tasty and we enjoyed a drink by the log fire watching the sun set over the Torres del Paine (towers).

Our comfy feather duvets in the dorms.

The sun setting over the towers, our Refugio is just at the bottom of the ridge, hiding in the trees.

Jon enjoying a drink watching the sunset over the towers.

Early the next morning we were lucky enough to see the sunrise over the towers and we rushed outside to photograph the rapidly changing light. In our hurry we forgot about the cold and quickly felt the pain as the frosty grass nipped our flip flop clad toes. Fortunately breakfast warmed us up and after collecting our huge packed lunch we started the first of 4 days trekking.

Sunrise over the park.

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The sunlight catching the towers, magically changing their colours.

One of the many horses in the park.

On the road to Chile

After a few days hiking we decided to have a restful day in El Calafate. It was great to have time to recharge our batteries, do some chores and take it easy. We spent the afternoon in a lovely little cafe in town. The walls were decorated in old black and white photographs of the town in it’s early days. Horses and gauchos traveled the dusty streets in those days. In addition the cafe was a mini museum to coffee. Antique coffee pots, percolators and grinders from around the world filled the cabinets. Along with a succession of classic rock, great food and free WiFi (like so much of Argentina) it made for a very pleasant afternoon.

That evening we dined at a local restaurant a few minutes walk from the hostel. It was a busy place full of families dining on the local specialities. Jon had Patagonian lamb stew which was delicious, especially when combined with a nice glass of fruity Malbec.

We rose early and after breakfast walked in the dark through a sleepy El Calafate to the bus station. Today we were leaving Argentina to head to a place called Puerto Natales in Chile. This is the gateway town for the Torres del Paine National Park where we were planning on hiking the famous ‘W’ route. It’s a 4/5 day hike through three valleys in the park which form the shape of a W.

The bus travelled for 6 hours along ribbons of grey Tarmac. Outside the dusty Steppe plains drifted by like an ocean of yellow. Here and there we saw a cluster of small houses and farms but overall the land was devoid of human contact.

Stopping off at the Chilean border where the strict security staff confiscated many contraband items, including our dangerous raisins! Fruit, vegetables, animal, dairy and wood products are restricted from entry into Chilean and the penalties for smuggling these items are great. We eventually found out that this was due to Chile relying on the export of these products for its economy. Amazingly the whole country is free of the dreaded Drosophila, aka the fruit fly so they are understandable nervous about this changing.

As we approached Puerto Natales grey, barren hills and mountains appeared on the horizon. Half an hour later we reached our destination. After walking for 10 minutes we found our hostel, dropped off our bags and headed to the famous 3pm talk at the Erratic Rock hostel.

The talk involved everything you might need to know about hiking in the Torres del Paine National Park. To be honest we had already done a lot of research about the park before we left for South America but it was useful to find out the costs and timings of the various buses and catamarans, especially as the season was drawing to an end. Plus the bar there serves great beers and pizzas which was worth the visit!

Afterwards we popped to the local supermarket to load up on snacks for the hike, packed our rucks sacks and had an early night in anticipation for an exciting few days ahead.

Recommendations

Tin House hostel, Miraflores 616

Www.tinhousepatagonia.com

A small, warm and friendly hostel close to the centre of Puerto Natales. The helpful owner can organise bus tickets to the Torres del Paine National Park (TDP).

Erratic Rock Hostel, Banquedano 719

http://www.erraticrock.com/hostel/

Popular hostel and adjacent bar/restaurant (Basecamp Pub). American owners. Serves great beers and pizzas. Useful 3pm talk about hiking in TDP if you haven’t done your research. Especially good if you plan to camp. They also rent all the equipment you might need including walking poles, a must especially for the knee shredding French Valley.

Charming El Chaltén

Patagonia is known for its amazing scenery. It’s also renowned as a world class hiking destination and we were excited to see whether it lived up to its reputation.

One of the best hiking regions is at the other end of the Los Glaciares National Park. The park, the second largest in Argentina, is huge covering 724,000 hectares and is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Only the north and south edges are accessible as 40% of the park is covered by ice fields creating 13 major glaciers (including Perito Moreno) that descend into two great lakes, Lago Argentino at the southern end by El Calafate and Largo Viedma in the north.

We took a bus from El Calafate to El Chaltén, 217km north at the other end of the park. It was our first taste of the fabled luxurious Argentinan buses and it didn’t disappoint. The comfy reclining seats and big picture windows meant a very pleasant three hours journey passing azure blue lakes, warm yellow grass and clear blue skies.

As we neared El Chaltén we had our first glimpse of the famous Mt. Fitzroy which draws people to the small town.

The bus stopped at the visitor centre for ten minutes where we were given a talk by the park ranger about the trails in the area and a map before dropping us off in the town. El Chaltén is the only town located in the National Park and is Argentina’s newest town. To say it’s spectacularly located is an understatement. The town sits in a wedge of land between two icy rivers (Rio Fitzroy and Rio de las Vuelltas) ringed by the spectacular peaks of the Fitz Roy massif which rises steeply from the Patagonian steppe.

The mountains are so steep that snow can’t stick and are statistically harder to climb than Mt. Everest! Last year only one climber had to honour of reaching the summit (3375m) due to the tricky combination of the technically difficult climb and the fabled Patagonian weather which relishes in creating 100km/hr gusts and heavy rain.

As a town El Chaltén is charming with wide dusty streets, simple low rise houses and many shops and restaurants catering to the eager hikers and climbers that flock to the area.

We stayed in a lovely hostel run by a pony tailed lawyer from Buenos Aires with the duel passions of heavy metal music and the great outdoors.

As we arrived late in the afternoon we just had time to hike to the two miradors (lookouts) Los Cóndores and Las Águilas above the town and enjoyed the views with the setting sun.

The next morning we started the first of our full day hikes from El Chaltén. It was a 22km round trip heading straight out of town towards Laguna Torre. The day started bright and clear and we enjoyed views of the autumn colours as we hiked the first section stopping for lunch at the De Agostini campsite next to the crystal clear Fitz Roy River.

Unfortunately today was to be our first experience of the famous Patagonian weather. Rain and wind prevailed for the rest of the day. We continued hiking until we reached Laguna Torre, a grey lake created from the melt water of the Glacier Grande. Mini icebergs floated in the lake, occassionally resting on the shoreline. The visibility due to the heavy rain prevented us from reaching the mirador a few km’s away but the combination of the glacier and icebergs more than made up for the poor weather.

The rain continued for most of the 11km back to town and we were very glad to have such a cosy hostel to shelter in. Howling winds continued throughout the night rattling the windows as we slept.

Fortunately the following morning was promisingly sunny so we set off early for the longer hike to the base of Mt. Fitzroy itself and Cerro Torre. According to the ranger’s map the hike was to be a 25km round trip taking approximately 9 hours with a climb of 750m to the base of mountain.

It started off with a steep climb from the north end of town then a scenic undulating walk past the valley of Rio de Las Vuelltas.

The trail passed a campsite at Laguna Capri then continued over and around icy streams with log bridges. Next we walked along scenic rocky river beds decorated with crimson trees. Then the weather turned and we were lashed with tiny icy hail stones. We took shelter behind a boulder as we ate our lunch hoping that rain wasn’t far behind.

Along the way we got tantalising glimpses of the Fitzroy massif veiled by clouds, tempting us closer.

As luck would have it the day stayed dry but in place of hail came fierce gusts of wind as we continued on to the Poincenot campsite before starting the final ascent. This involved a steep climb up a rocky exposed slope and the higher we got the stronger the wind became. By the time we reached the top I could barely stand as the wind tried to knock me over. I clung to the rocks with the other hikers as a few hardy souls including Jon braved the final 500m climb to the summit. He returned battered and windswept declaring he could barely open his eyes to see the spectacular view of the Laguna de los Tres the wind was so fierce!

The gusts prevailed during our steep descent and we were glad to be back within the protection of the trees. As we looked back at the mountain the winds had blown away the clouds and we saw the peaks clearly for the first time. We were warned before we set off how rare it is to see the peaks un obscured due to the weather so it was all the more impressive to see them in person. So much so that our walk back involved many many photo stops to capture their striking beauty.

Another highlight of our return hike was seeing a Megallenic Woodpecker in the forest. He was happily pecking away for his dinner, not at all bothered by the audience.

Contented we continued downhill enjoying the lovely views as the sun began to set.

It was dark by the time we reached the town and we celebrated our successful day with a few drinks in the microbrewery before tasty pizzas for dinner.

All in all we had a wonderful few days in El Chaltén which wet our appetite for the next section of our trip, the famous Torres del Paine National Park.

Recommendations

La Cerveceria microbrewery, San Martin 564 (www.elchalten.com/Cerveceria)

Brews its own excellent beer. Also serves local dishes, pizzas and snacks in a warm and cosy environment. Highly recommended after a tiring days hiking.

Patagonicus, Güemes y Madsen.

Fantastic pizzas (the best we have had in South America), pastas, salads and snacks. Also has wonderful black and white photos of El Chaltén and its early climbing pioneers including the famous Norweigan adventurer Andreas Madsen.

Hostel Aylen-Aike

http://www.elchalten.com/aylenaike/indexen.php

Cosy and friendly hostel with great character plus an entertaining owner full of knowledge about the area.

A little bit of ice

El Calyfate is a small town on Largo Argentina, set just outside the southern edge of Los Glaciers National Park in Argentinian Patagonia. You have probably guessed by the name what visitors come to the region in search of. And come they do in their thousands. It’s a popular place for both backpackers like us and big tour groups and every whim is catered for.

Our friendly and lively hostel (America del Sur), along with many others was high on a dusty ridge on the outskirts of town. It was only 20 minutes walk from the centre and had an amazing view across Largo Argentina to the hills beyond.

Our hostel and the view

The larger tourist hotels are found in town along with a casino, restaurants, bars and many many gift shops selling the typical tourist things seen the world over. Fortunately there were also some more interesting artisanal pieces in a nightly market and some great bars/cafes. With the huge numbers if middle aged tourists, cutesy themed restaurants and decor, pristine and neat high street the town had a really American feel to it. Although it felt lacking in local colour the real draw are the glaciers.

The most famous of all is the Perito Moreno glacier. It statistics in themselves are impressive – it is 3 miles wide (5km) with an average height of 197ft (60m). It’s greatest depth is 2297ft (700m) and it’s total coverage is 97 square miles (250 sq km) and measures 90miles (30km) in length! Due to global warming most glaciers are retreating rapidly but Perito Moreno is one of the few left that is still advancing, on average 2m per day. Impressive stuff!

To say we were excited about seeing it was an understatement. Natural wonders were the key points we planned our trip around so we were keen to see whether it could live up to its reputation.

Reality often disappoints in comparison to imagination. Today it surpassed it, the glacier was simply incredible. It’s hard to describe how beautiful and enormous it was and the photographs being on my iPhone don’t do it justice but I will try to.

Our first view was from the bus into the park and that was exciting. It filled the rocky valley, seemingly going on for miles into the distance. After entering the park we took a boat trip to see the face of the glacier from the lake. Although it was a warm day we could feel the chill in the air the closer we got to the glacier. The huge amount of ice created its own microclimate and we all shivered on the deck of the boat whilst we gazed in wonder. Mini icebergs floated by in the lake and bobbed about hitting the shore as the boat passed along the glacial face. We could see the multitude of colours making up the ice – from clear to white, baby blue to deep navy and here and there brown, grey and blank where sediment and rocks had been carried along by the power of the ice.

Our first glimpse from the bus

Views from the boat

After the boat trip we went to the main visitors centre and spent the afternoon walking the miles of boardwalks built along side the glacier. These were great as they allowed us to get relatively close to the ice, from both above and below the glacier.

From the different vantage points we got a better sense of just how large it was. The ice seemed to go on forever. Jagged edges covered the upper surface interspersed here and there by deep ravines. The smooth leading surface was cracked and scared, some small and shallow, others large and deep. While we watched the glacier mesmerised we could hear large eerie creaking sounds and every now and then a splash as ice fell off the surface into the water. During the afternoon we were fortunate enough to witness a piece of ice the size of a car tumble off into the lake. It was minutes before the noise and motion of the splash subsided.

We took photo after photo trying to capture its beauty. To be honest it’s an almost impossible feat but I hope these photos give some impression of the natural wonder of the Perito Moreno glacier.

Views from the boardwalks alongside the glacier

Heading back into town we did the only thing you could do after seeing such a sight. Eat ice cream! We tried the local speciality made from Calafate berries which gives the town it’s name. Legend says that anyone who eats the berries ill return to Patagonia someday, fingers crossed we do! The ice cream itself was delicious and wet our appetite for some delicious Agentine steak and a glass of Malbec. As Jon would say ‘Happy days!’

Journey to the end of the world

A city at the end of the world, it sounds so dramatic, so foreign and otherworldly like a place in childhood fairytale. One that is also on an island of fire sounded just too good to miss so we jumped on a plane and headed south.

Ushuaia is the city at the end of the world. Sure there are a few small towns technically closer to the South Pole but nothing as big as Ushuaia. It’s found on the island of Tierra del Fuego (yes indeed the fabled island of fire) which is shared by Argentina and Chile, Ushuaia being in the Argentinian part.

It’s a Mecca for travellers seeking adventure and an albeit pricey once in a lifetime experience. From here ships and boats leave the safe harbour for the choppy open seas heading south to Antartica and it’s islands. Their journey begins along the Magellan straights, before they head into open water where they battle with icebergs and 50ft waves.

Although our funds couldn’t stretch to an Antartic adventure we found plenty to fill our days in the town. Being that many tourists who arrive hang around for only a day or two before sailing south to Antarctica the shops in town definitely are geared to their tastes and pockets. The streets are lined with shops selling extravagantly overpriced outdoor clothing, cameras, chocolate and gifts. If you can write Ushuaia on it they sell it! That said we did indulge in a hot chocolate or two.

The town itself might not be the prettiest but it has the loveliest of settings. Surrounding the town, like a protective bowl are jagged snow topped mountains. Dusty streets with aluminium clad houses of all shapes and sizes, some barely shacks tumble down to the large and busy harbour. There is the air of a gritty frontier town to the place. Away from the tourist centre strip clubs and bars provide entertainment for the sailors. Overall though it’s a quirky and charming place.

At the cosy hostel Antarctica we met a lovely girl named Sarah and decided to hike to the Martial glacier which is in the mountains 7km behind the town. With rucksacks packed we jumped in a taxi to the base of the hill and began our first hike of many hikes of the trip.

The first part of the walk passed alongside the ski lift into the forest, crossing over icy streams. Next we climbed above the tree line and the ground steeply gave way to slippery scree as the wind picked up giving us our first taste of the fabled Patagonian weather. Luckily the buffeting blasts of wind didn’t hinder our progress and we reached the base of the glacier to enjoy the amazing view of the bay of Ushuaia below. Lunch was eaten in an equally scenic spot and appetites sated we headed back towards town.

On our return journey we decided to walk the extra 7km to town and acquired a few companions. Two dogs who we at first thought belonged to someone at the ski centre bounded ahead of us on the switch back road, occasionally chasing each other into the woods. Every now and then they would disappear only to rush out into the road barking, tails frantically wagging as they chased the cars that passed by. As the town loomed closer one of the dogs disappeared leaving the other alone.

Ushuaia like most of South America is full of stray dogs. Many are harmless but a few, especially those in Ushuaia are pretty scary to be honest. Stetson as Sarah named him was a cool dude of a dog. His smelly fur was dirty and matted, almost like dreadlocks but such was his kindly nature he walked through the town without flinching as dogs of all sizes snapped, barked and growled at him as we passed by. Not one could provoke him to react. He was like a lone ranger in a canine Western, quietly passing through the frontier town, and we were very grateful of his company. It was hard to leave him once were we safely back at the hostel. We saw him in town over the next few days which sadly confirmed our suspicions that he was a stray. I can only hope he has a friendly companion and place to keep warm as the Patagonian winters are particularly harsh.

The next day we decided to follow in a few of Darwin’s footsteps and take a trip along the Beagle Channel, named after his expedition boat of 1832. From our modern boat we saw lots of sea lions lazing on the rocks in the channel. They are huge creatures. Noisy and very smelly too but great to see them in the wild. In addition to seabirds such as cormorants and gulls we also saw penguins. Although most of the colony had left we still managed to see many native Megallenic penguins and 25 pairs of Gentoo on the rocky beach. It was so exciting to see them, if a little strange without their typical icy background. Returning to port we enjoyed the dramatic scenery as the sun began to dip below the mountains.

For our last day we headed for the Tierra del Fuego National Park. This relatively small park of 68,909 hectares was founded in 1960 and protects the southern tip of the Andes to the Beagle Channel. All of the accessible walking paths are close to the Beagle Channel and pass through ancient Lenga (deciduous) and Guindo (evergreen) forests and peat bogs.

After a gloomily soggy start the rain fortunately thinned out and we had a lovely day walking along the costal paths. The early bad weather seemed to have put off many visitors. For most of the day we hardly saw another sole which was great. The costal path wound in and out of the woods dropping here and there to rocky bays with white shell beaches. Sunshine and showers created regular rainbows which seemed to greet us at every bay. As an introduction to walking in Patagonia we couldn’t have asked for a lovelier day.

So having begun our Patagonian adventures we said goodbye to the scenic Ushuaia and headed north to El Calyfate in search of ice.

Heading up to the glacier

Just in case we missed it…

Yes, that’s it behind us

Ushuaia bay from the top

Autumn was just starting to show in the trees

It’s officially the end of the world (well the sign says so)

Let’s just say the British and the Argentinians have a difference of opinion

A mural showing the original inhabitants of Ushuaia, the Yamana Indians

Dusk in Ushuaia

A spectacularly lovely dawn from our hostel

Sailing into the Beagle Channel

Salty sea lions

Les Eclaireurs, aka The Lighthouse at the end of the world.

One of the many cargo ships in port

Penguins!

More penguins!

Details of the beach at the Tierra del Fuego National Park

Sunshine and rain = rainbows!

Lovely views on the Tierra del Fuego National Park

More rainbows!

Literally the end of the (very long) road

Our cosy hostel Antatctica

This guy arrived the morning we left having driven all the way from Alaska. As you can imagine Jon was itching to make a similar trip. Maybe an epic European bike trip is on the horizon?

City views

The gorgeous airport, if only they always looked this stunning

Our final look at the end of the world

Time out in Tigre

Before we came to South America we asked people who have been before for their recommendations for places to visit. A variety of different places were suggested, some famous places we had heard of and others we hadn’t. Tigre was a place recommended by a lovely Chilean couple I met through work.

It is a riverside suburb located 28km north of Buenos Aires that feels like a world away from the noise and bustle of the city. To get there we took a train for an hour, arriving to lovely sunshine and a view of the town on the Paraná river delta. It sits on an island created by the streams and small rivers that make up the delta and was an important port for the distribution of wood and fruit from the rivers upstream. The town takes its name from the ‘tigers’ or jaguars that were once hunted in the region.

Over the years the town has grown due to flourishing tourism and increasing wealth of the porteños to become a regular place to visit on sunny weekends. Some parts look very similar to Henley-on-Thames, with English style rowing clubs lining the river banks.

Boats of all sizes filled the riverside moorings in town and we decided to take a boat trip to the ‘three rivers’. The boat was a lovely old wooden river cruiser and our fellow passengers included tourists and locals who live along the river banks.

As we cruised along it was clear to see just how integral the river is to the town. As well as the lovely houses on the river banks we saw a riverside school, church, supermarket and even petrol station where people could moor up their boats outside to visit.

The trip took us along the three rivers to an island where we disembarked for a lazy lunch in the sunshine watching the world float by. Afterwards we went for a post prandial walk along the smaller river banks, watching the butterflies and birds as we passed by. The air had a lovely sleepy feel to it, a perfect antidote to the city. All in all a great travel recommendation.

The variety of boats that travel the rivers around Tigre

The riverside funfair at the fruit market adds to the holiday feel of the town

One of the lovely houses we saw on our river trip

A lovely little riverside church, on stilts!

Most of the houses on the river have moorings like these

Another of the lovely riverside houses

Even the boats like to chill out in the sunshine

They even have a riverside petrol station in Tigre!

Street art and Architecture in the city

As you might expect from a city established by European settlers the architecture is grand and impressive. Many nationalities have made their mark over the years reflecting the changing tastes and fashions. When Argentina declared independence from Spain in 1816 the porteños rejected Spanish culture and with it the architecture of their former governors. Italian Renaissance, German, French, Art Deco and even Roman architectural styles can be seen throughout the city. Unfortunately many of the buildings are looking tired and in need of restoration, a sign of the difficult times Argentina has had in the past. Fortunately their economy is improving so hopefully the buildings will be returned to their former glory as some of them are stunning.

The first is Palacio del Congreso which you many notice shows many similarities to the Capitol building in Washington DC which inspired its design.

This a one of the lovely houses in Palermo. Many foreign embassies are based in this area.

I really loved this next building. Its called Palacio de Las Aguas Corrientes (Palace of the running water) opened in 1894. Amazingly this beautiful building, decorated with Wedgewood tiles shipped from England was built to house 12 giant tanks to distribute water to the city. Got to love the architects in the Victorian era. Now it’s home to the public offices of the water board and a small museum.

The grid system of Buenos Aires and taxis and high rise apartments of Palermo reminded me a little of New York.

Images of Evita can be found throughout the city.

As well as architecture the parks and busy streets of Buenos Aires are decorated with sculptures and street art.

Rodin’s The Thinker contemplates the day in front of the Congresional building.

This incredible sculpture called Floralis Genérica was designed by the architect Eduardo Catalano in 2002. It is solar-powered an the enormous metallic petals open to the sun at dawn and delicately close at dusk.

The following are some of the great murals I saw in the city, mostly from San Telmo and La Boca.

This last one is not technically art, just a group of door bells to an old apartment block we passed but I just loved it and had to take a photo.

You say coffee, I say cortado

Although Buenos Aires may not be a city of ‘must-sees’ like Rio de Janiero, Paris or Rome it does have lots of things to do to pass the time. The most popular of those is taking part in its cafe culture. On almost every street corner is a cafe full of locals meeting for café con leche y medialunas (cafe latte and croissants). Some are small, humble and local and others are grand Parisian style affairs where formally dressed waiters serve customers from silver trays in salons decorated on marble, stained glass and dark wood.

One of the most famous of those is Café Tortoni, the city’s oldest cafe. It was a regular haunt of the legendary tango singer Carlos Gardel and his photographs along with other prominent porteños line the walls. There we drank tea (me), café cortado (expresso shot with a little milk, Jon) and ate churros (fried, sweet doughnut pastry tubes).

Our favourite one was rather special. It is found on a stage of a beautiful antique 1920s- cinema and theatre which is now part of the El Ateneo chain called El Ateneo Grand Splendid. The original lights, pulley system and boxes are still present and now book shelves are found where people once sat to be entertained.

Day at the zoo

One sunny day in Palermo we decided to visit the zoo. The main draw was to see some native South American animals, as well as the usual suspects of elephants, lions and monkeys.

The zoo itself is attractive to look at. Within the enclosures are structures designed to look like buildings native to where the animals are from. An Indian temple in the elephant enclosure, African hut for the zebra etc. Unfortunately less thought seems to have been made for the animals own homes.

Their enclosures are mostly too small, tired and in desperate need of renovation. Some of the behaviour of the animals would make a psychologist nervous, showing how cooped up some of the animals feel. The bears showed tragic signs of repetitive behaviour, endlessly circling their enclosure.

It was so sad to see and made it difficult to enjoy the visit. I hope that things improve quickly as such an old fashioned zoo doesn’t belong in a modern city such as Buenos Aires.

Luckily the native animals seemed more at home in their environment. Maybe to staff were more experienced in caring for them?

Anyway here are a few photos of the animals we saw:

The cute rabbit/wallaby like animal below is a Patagonian Mara (close relative of the Guinea pig and 4th largest rodent in the world) which roamed freely around the zoo

The next guys are Guanacos- a South American camelid found in the Antiplano region of Peru and Boliva and Patagonia (including Torres del Paine and Tierra del Fuego).

Obviously we saw Llamas who were were very friendly and happy to eat the good pellets you could buy in the zoo

The lovely fella below is an appropriately named spiral horned antelope