Climb to Cerro Catedral

Cerro Catedral is one of the larger hills overlooking Bariloche. The steep walk to the top is popular with both hikers and climbers hoping to scale the cathedral like peak.

We took a taxi for 40 minutes to the start of the walk, the empty ski resort of the same name. Following the signs for Refugio Frey, the climbers hut at the summit, we walked in the hot sun through woodland at the foot of the hills.

The path began to rise and we followed Lago Guitierez to our left as the trail got rockier.

After a few hours it turned sharply into a forest as we followed a stream, crossing over many bridges as the path got steeper and steeper.

We stopped to rest for a while at a small Refugio almost hidden under a huge boulder in the forest before making the final push to the summit.

Unfortunately the last few km’s were non stop climbing, much harder than the hikes we did in Torres del Paine. The sun was getting hotter, our packs heavier and are legs more tired with each step. Fortunately the scenery was stunning enough to distract us from the gruelling hike every time we stopped to catch our breath.

The trees around us and in the curved bowls of the surrounding mountains were on fire with colour. Vivid reds and orange leaves contrasted beautifully against the jagged grey rocks that crested the mountains.

Once we cleared the tree line Refugio Frey finally came into view and after four hours we knew we were almost there. We celebrated with an expensive yet oh so delicious can of ice cold coke from the Refugio tuck shop and ate our lunch by the lake Toncek at the top. Whilst we savoured the view we watched a group of climbers scale the peak of the Catedral, awestruck at their guts and skill.

The welcoming sight of Refugio Frey and lake Toncek.

Climbers looking teeny tiny as they scale Cerro Catedral.

Our lovely lakeside lunch.

Coming back down was just as tough, the steep path jarring our knees with every step. We passed a large group of children making the climb who looked just as tired as we were under the weight of their backpacks that seemed to swamp their tiny frames. Offering them encouragement we continued our descent, passing the small Refugio again in the forest.

The steep descent, still beautiful.

The park ranger in town recommended a different route back, following Lago Guitierez, and as it was such a lovely day we decided to follow her suggestion. After an hour we really wished we hadn’t! The return route was meant to provide a view of the lake and be only slightly further than returning the way we came. Unfortunately not only could we not see the lake at all during the majority of the walk, the 4km she suggested had turned into 9km. The trail passed through grassy, rocky scrub land eventually coming into a wood as the sun began to disappear.

The point we wished we had gone the other way!

The temperature rapidly dropped as we passed through the wood eventually coming to a road beside a campsite. Cold, tired and physically exhausted we slowly trudged along the road for another 2km, passing lovely, expensive lakeside houses. Night was rapidly falling as we eventually made it to a small village and the bus stop which we were so relieved and happy to see. Just as we reached the stop a bus was pulling out and we ran towards it shouting but the driver didn’t see us so we glumly waited for the next one. Eventually one came and we made the long journey back to our hostel too tired to even eat. Fortunately we had planned a day a relaxation for the following day and that’s just what we did.

Walking in Llao Llao

In order to counteract all that tempting chocolate we were eating whilst in Bariloche major exercise was needed. Fortunately there were many lovely walks in the area.

Over the course of a weekend we took a local bus along the lake to the Llao Llao peninsula. The one hour journey in itself was lovely passing through small hamlets that line the lake, getting glimpses of the glittering water through the trees.

At the end of the bus route was a huge and glamorous hotel in the most beautiful of settings, Hotel Llao Llao. It sits by the Circuito Chico road, a popular scenic driving route and from there we started the first of our two walks on the Llao Llao peninsula.

The glamorous Hotel Llao Llao from a distance.

The lake next to the hotel.

A lovely wooden church in Llao Llao.

The first walk was a short circuit to the Arrayan forest. Leaving the road we passed through woodland filled with silvery fringes plants that grew up and over the path to create a tunnel effect. The way the sunlight lit them it felt like walking through a snowy magical forest, like something from a fairy tale. The plants looked so strange and out of place here that it took us a while to realise that they were bamboo trees, all dried up and dying.

At the end of the trail was a group of Arrayan trees giving their name to the walk. Their twisted trunks were enveloped in beautiful amber coloured bark, spotted with silver.

On the return the rain began and we spotted many mushrooms nestled on fallen tree trunks as we made our way back to the shelter of the bus back to Bariloche.

The beginning of the rain.

The next day we headed back to Llao Llao to complete the second of our walks on the peninsula. This time we climbed through the forest towards the Cerro Llao Llao. The sun was shining, the birds were singing and the sky was clear and blue as we followed the path higher and higher towards the top.

Look closely and you might see a little Pigmy owl. The closest I could get with my iPhone!

From the rocky mirador we saw Lago Nahuel Huapi sparkling in the sun as we enjoyed our lunch. It was so lovely to feel the sun’s warmth after the wet week in Puerto Varas.

An hour or so later we headed back down through the beautiful forest, again to catch our bus back to Bariloche.

Towering Torres del Paine – Day 4 Grey Glacier

Day 4 – Mountain Lodge Paine Grande to Mirador Glaciar Grey and back before getting the catamaran out of the park (12km, approx 3 hrs)

The time of year we were visiting Torres del Paine coincided with the end of the season which meant that the late catamaran has been withdrawn. This meant that the only boat of the day to get us out of the park left at 12.30. We really wanted to see Glacier grey so after rising early we marched along the left side of the ‘W’ to the mirador. The round trip took 3 hours and felt tough as our legs were still tired from the epic 28km hike the day before. This was the first day we properly experienced the classic Patagonian weather the park is famous for. Walking through the valley we felt the wind increase until we reached the mirador where it was so strong it knocked me off my feet! It buffeted us as if we were in a wind tunnel as we gazed at the face of Glacier Grey.

Mini blue icebergs!

Jon versus Patagonian wind

In the lake we could see bright blue icebergs broken off from the glaciers floating by. We headed back, helped along by the strong wind, to the Refugio before picking up our lunch and backpacks.

The catamaran travelled along Lago Pehoé towards Laguna Armaga at the park entrance. The weather had completely changed from the glorious sunshine we had experienced during our ‘W’ hike. Dark foreboding clouds gathered around all the mountain peaks as the wind whipped up the surface of the lake. We passed the waterfall of Salto Grande before reaching our destination.

The foreboding clouds over Los Cuernos.

At Laguna Armaga we boarded a bus heading back to Puerto Natales. As it traveled out of the park we looked back towards the Torres, taking a final view of the amazing mountains that formed the backdrop to the most amazing hike I have ever been lucky enough to complete.

Towering Torres del Paine – Day 3 Los Cuernos, French Valley to Mountain Lodge Paine Grande

Day 3 – Refugio Cuernos, up and down the Valley of the Río del Francés (French Valley) and continuing to Mountain Lodge Paine Grande (28.5km, approx 11 hours)

The third day of the ‘W’ was to be the toughest of our hikes in Torres del Paine. Not only was it the longest in distance and time but the terrain was challenging too. Fortunately the foreboding dark clouds that greeted us yesterday afternoon had blown away during the night and after a gorgeous sunrise over the Cuernos before breakfast we started the day in glorious sunshine that continued throughout the day.

For the first hour or so we continued west along Lago Nordernskjöld enjoying the beautiful colour until we reached Campemento Chileno where we left our heaviest items at the ranger hut to collect on our return.

Jon crossing one of the many bridges during our hike.

From there the trail passed through beautiful woodland, following the twisting river below as we climbed towards a rocky plateau. All around us were stunning views. We looked back towards Lago Nordernskjöld, pale in the distance, then behind us to dramatic rocky mountains decorated with small glaciers underneath piles of brilliant white snow.

In places the weight of the snow proved to be too much. We heard a loud crack as small avalanches came tumbling down the mountainside. So exciting and thrilling to see.

Avalanche!

We continued onwards and upwards through more beautiful woodland, resplendent in the rich autumn colours. I don’t think I have ever seen foliage look so pretty. The red leaves really glowed against the pale rocks and snow.

Looking back to Lago Nordernskjöld.

We reached the next marker, Campemento Britanico, the last in the French Valley before the summit. Unfortunately it was looking bare as a fire had swept through destroying the site.

The trail climbed higher and higher as we rose above the tree line. Another rocky plateau gave way to the very steep final section. I was so glad to have my walking poles today for balance as much as an extra pair of legs.

Río del Francés.

The views on our ascent to the top.

We reached the summit to be greeted by a breathtaking view. Jagged grey mountains of various shapes formed a ring around the mouth of the Valle Francés. The afternoon sun seemed to make the rocks glow and the red trees catch on fire, such was the amazing colour. We ate our lunch on top of a huge boulder taking in the wonderful view. It was definitely the highlight of the ‘W’ trek.

Panoramic views from the top.

We clambered back down the rocks towards Campemento Chileno through the lovely woodland. In spite of the stunning views to distract us our knees were so sore by the time we reached the bottom. The rocks seemed never ending and we were relieved to reach the campsite.

The rocky plateau on our way down.

After collecting our heavy items we crossed the Río del Francés and continued the trail towards our stop for the night. We still had another 7km to cover before our destination and we could feel our legs getting heavier with each step.

Views back towards the mountains as we left the French Valley.

We walked along wooden boardwalks passing over marshland. After a while the trail turned back towards the lake and climbed a ridge. From the top we looked back to see the snow capped mountains perfectly reflected in the rare mirror like surface of the Lago Pehoé.

The sun was beginning to set as we walked the final section of the trail. Green disappeared as we passed through woodland devastated by a huge fire that covered most of the left hand side of the ‘W’. Blackened and charred bark peeled off the damaged trees. It was eerily quiet. No birds were singing and it felt like the life had left this section of the park. As we looked closer though we could see new growth trying to emerge. Small yellow flowers sprang beneath the dead trees.

It was incredibly sad to learn that all this devastation had been caused by a single camper who ignored the rules about wild camping. The fierce Patagonian winds had spread their illegal fire over a huge section of the park that would take hundreds of years to recover.

After witnessing the utter carelessness and stupidity of man we felt rather gloomy as the sun began to fall below the horizon. Finally we saw the lights of the Refugio in the distance which cheered us up.

The welcoming sight of Mountain Lodge Paine Grande.

Our last view of Los Cuernos before nightfall.

After dinner we enjoyed pisco sours in the bar of Mountain Lodge Paine Grande, chatting with the other hikers who were doing the ‘W’ hike along with us. As well as the Australian sisters were three Irish guys, old friends also celebrating a significant birthday. We chatted and laughed about our travels, work and many other things whilst we rested our legs and dreamed of a good nights sleep.

Recommendations.

Mountain Lodge Paine Grande.

Large, warm, hotel like Refugio with restaurant, bar, camping facilities and shop. It has great views and is next to the Catamaran jetty and on the way to the Grey Glacier.

www.verticepatagonia.com

Towering Torres del Paine – Day 2 Torres to Cuernos

Day 2 – Refugio Torres to Refugio Los Cuernos ( 11km, approx 4.5 hrs)

Today’s shorter hike passed along side the beautiful Lago Nordernskjöld. This gorgeous stretch of water runs along the bottom of the ‘W’ bordered by rolling hills to the south and steeply rising mountains to the north.

Sign post pointing out the various trails in the park.

A sunny start to our hike.

Cows enjoying the grass and sunshine.

As we walked that morning the sun changed the colour of the water through all the shades of blue from midnight, royal to bright turquoise like the semi precious stone.

Our first view of the lake.

One of the many and very helpful markers in the park. Always nice to know many more Kms you still have to go!

A ‘UFO’ cloud that caught my eye.

The reflected mountain.

The turquiose Lago Nordernskjöld

The undulating path traveled through woods and small streams, climbing to rocky outcrops with lovely views of the lake where we stopped for lunch.

One of the many bridges we crossed on the trail.

The view from our lunch spot.

It then dropped to a sheltered pebble beach were we enjoyed the crash of the waves. As the path rose again the fabled Patagonian wind made an appearance nearly knocking us off our feet as we were taken unawares. It whipped up the water like the sea, scattering silver crested waves across the surface as we watched a small boat pass by in the distance.

Our first view of Torres del Cuernos (horns).

An hour later we saw our next home for the night the cabins at Refugio Cuernos scattered below the dark sedimentary topped granite peaks of the Cuernos (horns) of Paine. By then the wind had blown dark and heavy rain clouds into the blue sky and we donned our rain jackets for the first time of the hike.

Our cabin for the night.

Our little cabin was at the edge of the site, next to a lovely waterfall crashing onto the rocks as it made its way into the lake below.

We relaxed for the rest of the afternoon before dining in the Refugio with our fellow hikers, sharing stories, photos and travelling adventures. Later we gazed up in awe at one of the clearest skies we had ever seen. Thousands of stars were visible in the inky black sky with the Milky Way shining brightly as a band of white across the mountain peaks. We drifted to sleep soothed by the sound of the waterfall.

Towering Torres del Paine – Day 1 of the ‘W’ hike

Day 1 – Refugio Torres to the base of Torres del Paine and back (21km, approx 9 hrs)

The day was warm, bright and sunny as we headed off on our first day of the ‘W’, the righthand side. The beginning section of the trail was steep, climbing rocks at first then a narrow shale path above a river gorge.

Looking towards Valle Ascensio

Rio Ascensio created by the run off from glaciers.

Hence we were pretty hot and sweaty by the time we reached our first stop at Campamento Chileno 2 hours later. There we bumped into fellow travellers we met in our hostel in El Chaltén who were heading down on their last day of the hike. We also saw Sarah again and shared some chocolate eggs as it was Easter Sunday.

Crossing the bridge to Campamento Chileno (peeking out from the trees), a small Refugio and campsite now closed as it was nearing the end of the hiking season when we visited the park.

Some of the working horses in the park we saw during our visit. They were at Chileno Refugio taking away the final stores before its winter closure.

The next section of the trail passed through a beautiful forest with glimpses of the icy river below as it tumbled over silvery rocks.

One of the park maps and a cheeky park guard who helped us along the hike.

Autumn colours

A burnt and twisted tree, like a natural sculpture.

The views on leaving the forest, near Campamento Torres.

We stopped for a quick snack for an energy boost before the final push to the base of the towers.

Jon really loving his cereal bar!

Very quickly the trees disappeared and the path got very steep and rocky. Our walking poles came into their own as we clambered up the winding path. Here and there it dived behind boulders and we started to get glimpses of the tips of the towers.

The tips of the towers just peeking up at the top of the photo.

After 45 minutes we made it to the mirador. It was so worth the steep climb as the view was breathtaking. The three silver towers stood side by side in front of a duck egg blue coloured lake, ringed by a wall of silver rock. Ice covered their base, lit up by the afternoon sun and we ate our lunch in enjoying their spectacular beauty.

The gorgeous, icy lake at the base of the Torres.

The return hike was just as beautiful. In the rocky path below the towers we were fortunate to spot a fox basking in the sunshine. The clear skies continued as we made our descent, filling the valley with gentle light. We saw very few people on our descent and enjoyed the peaceful scenery as the sun descended in the west.

Our final view of the mountains before dusk.

By the time we neared our Refugio dusk had arrived along with caracaras beginning their nightly hunt. Fortunately the hares hiding in the long grasses were quick enough to run away as we passed by in search of our own meal.

After dinner we spent the evening chatting to Rosie and Helen, Australian sisters celebrating a significant birthday with a hiking holiday in Patagonia. We also met a lovely family from The Lake District taking their 9 year old daughter on a once in a lifetime trip during her Easter holidays, though I think they were enjoying the hiking far more than she was!

Then after reading a few chapters of our book (Game of Thrones, far too addictive but I like to think that Patagonia looks a bit like Westeros for those of you in the know) we retired our weary limbs to bed.

Towering Torres del Paine – before the ‘W’

Bright and early we took the 7am bus from Puerto Natales and travelled 115km to the Torres del Paine National Park. After paying our fees at the Ranger station, watching a very serious video by Conaf (the Chilean National Forest Corporation) and collecting our maps we headed on another bus which took us through the park to our first Refugio of the hike.

The bumpy bus journey gave us the first of many spectacular views of the park and collective oohs and aahs were heard when we got a glimpse of the mountains that give the park it’s name. Vicuñas trotted along side the road and birds of prey soared overhead and it was safe to say we were very excited about the next few days ahead.

The towers in the distance on the right with a collection of the wonderful signs throughout the park which prevented us from getting lost.

We had decided to hike the ‘W’ trek. This is aptly named by the shape the trail makes as you hike along the three main valleys of the park.

Rather than camping and having to hike with all our equipment and food for the entire 5 days we opted to stay in a Refugio each night. The first two nights at Refugio Torres, the third at Refugio Cuernos (www.fantasticosur.com). The last night we planned to stay at Mountain Lodge Paine Grande (www.verticepatagonia.com)

You can start from either side of the park, we chose to hike from east to west. As we arrived mid afternoon we decided to start the ‘W’ in the morning, so after leaving most of our things at the Refugio we went on a warm up hike of 10km towards the Seron campsite.

The afternoon was warm and sunny and we enjoyed the views towards the lakes in the southern part of the park. It was also a good opportunity to try out our trekking poles that we had hired from Erratic Rock.

A view towards the lakes in the south east part of the park. The main mountains are hidden from view on this section of the trail, a great for tomorrow’s hike.

One of many silver trees in the park. They look bare due to Forrest fires burning off their bark.

For the next two nights we were staying in Refugio Torres, a lovely (if expensive) wooden building at the eastern edge of the park. Luckily the beds were comfy and the dinner tasty and we enjoyed a drink by the log fire watching the sun set over the Torres del Paine (towers).

Our comfy feather duvets in the dorms.

The sun setting over the towers, our Refugio is just at the bottom of the ridge, hiding in the trees.

Jon enjoying a drink watching the sunset over the towers.

Early the next morning we were lucky enough to see the sunrise over the towers and we rushed outside to photograph the rapidly changing light. In our hurry we forgot about the cold and quickly felt the pain as the frosty grass nipped our flip flop clad toes. Fortunately breakfast warmed us up and after collecting our huge packed lunch we started the first of 4 days trekking.

Sunrise over the park.

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The sunlight catching the towers, magically changing their colours.

One of the many horses in the park.

On the road to Chile

After a few days hiking we decided to have a restful day in El Calafate. It was great to have time to recharge our batteries, do some chores and take it easy. We spent the afternoon in a lovely little cafe in town. The walls were decorated in old black and white photographs of the town in it’s early days. Horses and gauchos traveled the dusty streets in those days. In addition the cafe was a mini museum to coffee. Antique coffee pots, percolators and grinders from around the world filled the cabinets. Along with a succession of classic rock, great food and free WiFi (like so much of Argentina) it made for a very pleasant afternoon.

That evening we dined at a local restaurant a few minutes walk from the hostel. It was a busy place full of families dining on the local specialities. Jon had Patagonian lamb stew which was delicious, especially when combined with a nice glass of fruity Malbec.

We rose early and after breakfast walked in the dark through a sleepy El Calafate to the bus station. Today we were leaving Argentina to head to a place called Puerto Natales in Chile. This is the gateway town for the Torres del Paine National Park where we were planning on hiking the famous ‘W’ route. It’s a 4/5 day hike through three valleys in the park which form the shape of a W.

The bus travelled for 6 hours along ribbons of grey Tarmac. Outside the dusty Steppe plains drifted by like an ocean of yellow. Here and there we saw a cluster of small houses and farms but overall the land was devoid of human contact.

Stopping off at the Chilean border where the strict security staff confiscated many contraband items, including our dangerous raisins! Fruit, vegetables, animal, dairy and wood products are restricted from entry into Chilean and the penalties for smuggling these items are great. We eventually found out that this was due to Chile relying on the export of these products for its economy. Amazingly the whole country is free of the dreaded Drosophila, aka the fruit fly so they are understandable nervous about this changing.

As we approached Puerto Natales grey, barren hills and mountains appeared on the horizon. Half an hour later we reached our destination. After walking for 10 minutes we found our hostel, dropped off our bags and headed to the famous 3pm talk at the Erratic Rock hostel.

The talk involved everything you might need to know about hiking in the Torres del Paine National Park. To be honest we had already done a lot of research about the park before we left for South America but it was useful to find out the costs and timings of the various buses and catamarans, especially as the season was drawing to an end. Plus the bar there serves great beers and pizzas which was worth the visit!

Afterwards we popped to the local supermarket to load up on snacks for the hike, packed our rucks sacks and had an early night in anticipation for an exciting few days ahead.

Recommendations

Tin House hostel, Miraflores 616

Www.tinhousepatagonia.com

A small, warm and friendly hostel close to the centre of Puerto Natales. The helpful owner can organise bus tickets to the Torres del Paine National Park (TDP).

Erratic Rock Hostel, Banquedano 719

http://www.erraticrock.com/hostel/

Popular hostel and adjacent bar/restaurant (Basecamp Pub). American owners. Serves great beers and pizzas. Useful 3pm talk about hiking in TDP if you haven’t done your research. Especially good if you plan to camp. They also rent all the equipment you might need including walking poles, a must especially for the knee shredding French Valley.