Day 3 – Refugio Cuernos, up and down the Valley of the Río del Francés (French Valley) and continuing to Mountain Lodge Paine Grande (28.5km, approx 11 hours)
The third day of the ‘W’ was to be the toughest of our hikes in Torres del Paine. Not only was it the longest in distance and time but the terrain was challenging too. Fortunately the foreboding dark clouds that greeted us yesterday afternoon had blown away during the night and after a gorgeous sunrise over the Cuernos before breakfast we started the day in glorious sunshine that continued throughout the day.
For the first hour or so we continued west along Lago Nordernskjöld enjoying the beautiful colour until we reached Campemento Chileno where we left our heaviest items at the ranger hut to collect on our return.
Jon crossing one of the many bridges during our hike.
From there the trail passed through beautiful woodland, following the twisting river below as we climbed towards a rocky plateau. All around us were stunning views. We looked back towards Lago Nordernskjöld, pale in the distance, then behind us to dramatic rocky mountains decorated with small glaciers underneath piles of brilliant white snow.
In places the weight of the snow proved to be too much. We heard a loud crack as small avalanches came tumbling down the mountainside. So exciting and thrilling to see.
Avalanche!
We continued onwards and upwards through more beautiful woodland, resplendent in the rich autumn colours. I don’t think I have ever seen foliage look so pretty. The red leaves really glowed against the pale rocks and snow.
Looking back to Lago Nordernskjöld.
We reached the next marker, Campemento Britanico, the last in the French Valley before the summit. Unfortunately it was looking bare as a fire had swept through destroying the site.
The trail climbed higher and higher as we rose above the tree line. Another rocky plateau gave way to the very steep final section. I was so glad to have my walking poles today for balance as much as an extra pair of legs.
Río del Francés.
The views on our ascent to the top.
We reached the summit to be greeted by a breathtaking view. Jagged grey mountains of various shapes formed a ring around the mouth of the Valle Francés. The afternoon sun seemed to make the rocks glow and the red trees catch on fire, such was the amazing colour. We ate our lunch on top of a huge boulder taking in the wonderful view. It was definitely the highlight of the ‘W’ trek.
Panoramic views from the top.
We clambered back down the rocks towards Campemento Chileno through the lovely woodland. In spite of the stunning views to distract us our knees were so sore by the time we reached the bottom. The rocks seemed never ending and we were relieved to reach the campsite.
The rocky plateau on our way down.
After collecting our heavy items we crossed the Río del Francés and continued the trail towards our stop for the night. We still had another 7km to cover before our destination and we could feel our legs getting heavier with each step.
Views back towards the mountains as we left the French Valley.
We walked along wooden boardwalks passing over marshland. After a while the trail turned back towards the lake and climbed a ridge. From the top we looked back to see the snow capped mountains perfectly reflected in the rare mirror like surface of the Lago Pehoé.
The sun was beginning to set as we walked the final section of the trail. Green disappeared as we passed through woodland devastated by a huge fire that covered most of the left hand side of the ‘W’. Blackened and charred bark peeled off the damaged trees. It was eerily quiet. No birds were singing and it felt like the life had left this section of the park. As we looked closer though we could see new growth trying to emerge. Small yellow flowers sprang beneath the dead trees.
It was incredibly sad to learn that all this devastation had been caused by a single camper who ignored the rules about wild camping. The fierce Patagonian winds had spread their illegal fire over a huge section of the park that would take hundreds of years to recover.
After witnessing the utter carelessness and stupidity of man we felt rather gloomy as the sun began to fall below the horizon. Finally we saw the lights of the Refugio in the distance which cheered us up.
The welcoming sight of Mountain Lodge Paine Grande.
Our last view of Los Cuernos before nightfall.
After dinner we enjoyed pisco sours in the bar of Mountain Lodge Paine Grande, chatting with the other hikers who were doing the ‘W’ hike along with us. As well as the Australian sisters were three Irish guys, old friends also celebrating a significant birthday. We chatted and laughed about our travels, work and many other things whilst we rested our legs and dreamed of a good nights sleep.
Recommendations.
Mountain Lodge Paine Grande.
Large, warm, hotel like Refugio with restaurant, bar, camping facilities and shop. It has great views and is next to the Catamaran jetty and on the way to the Grey Glacier.
Kirstperson 
Ummm, pisco sour, we had those once, they r are amazing….
Sent from my iPad
Oh yes they are! Will have to get a recipe and make you some celebratory ones after baby arrives x