One of the things I was most looking forward to doing during my time in Patagonia was to go horse riding through the beautiful scenery and experience the life of a Gaucho. Our hostel owners in Puerto Varas arranged for us to go riding with a local man who lives in Cochamó, south of Puerto Natales.
Excitedly we took a local bus and made the three hour drive to this small farming town by the fjord like waters of Estuario Reloncavi. There a friendly man named Ciro met us and took us to his house for breakfast before heading off riding for the day.
The sun rising over Orsono Volcano.
The lakeside town of Cochamó.
Ciro is a bone fide Chilean Gaucho who supplements his living taking tourists out riding through the nearby Río Cochamó valley filled with huge and ancient Alcerce trees. He and his wife Ida live in a lovely farm house beside the water. As we sat in their rustic and cosy kitchen eating freshly baked bread and local honey we admired their beautiful view of the Volcano Yates across the bay.
Ciro and Ida’s house.
It became pretty clear that we spoke basic Spanish and they spoke basic English but we got by ok with our dictionary and gestures. After checking that the horses were caballos tranquilo we got ready, packed the saddlebags with lunch and headed off for our adventure.
Jon and Ciro ready to ride.
As it was Jon’s first time on a horse Ciro lead him behind his horse for the outward leg of the journey. We trotted through the village that clung to the side of the bay, passing farms with pigs, cows and other horses. Ciro knew all the local farmers so we waved to everyone we passed shouting ‘Hola, Buenos Dias!’. During the ride we chatted with Ciro who kept checking our progress with the call of ¿Bueno? to which we enthusiastically replied ¡Bueno!
Chatting with the local farmers.
The path narrowed and we headed into the forest. Soon we were crossing rivers and climbing up narrow gorges cut into the forest floor. Some were so steep and rocky we had to hold on tight hoping the horses would make it up ok as they slipped on the wet ground.
They did of course and after crossing a fast flowing river (Río Cochamó) thigh high deep we stopped for lunch and gave the horses a well earned rest in the shade of the trees. We ate a hearty home made lunch as Ciro told us about the local wildlife and his life as a Gaucho.
Our horses resting in the shade.
The beautiful handmade wooden stirrups.
Jon having a free rein to ride home.
The return journey was just as spectacular and we admired the picture perfect scenery as we rode by. At every beautiful vista we exclaimed ‘Bonita, muy bonita!’ much to the amusement of Ciro. Coming down the steep gorge was just as tricky, especially for Jon as he now had free rein of his horse. Quite the adventure for his first time!
We passed forest clad mountains, high narrow waterfalls and houses clinging to the mountainside. It was all very Heidi-esque and simply stunning.
After dealing with a loose headstrong pony, excited to be free from its farm and trying to stop my horse from gorging on grass every time we paused we trotted on back to Cochamó town.
After saying goodbye to Ciro and Ida, and to our horses who showed their appreciation to be home by rolling in the grass we took a bus back to Puerto Varas. With happy hearts and aching legs we ate orange ice lollys on the bus whilst gazing at the volcanoes and beautiful sunset over lake Llanquihue on our way home after a perfect day.
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