View from the top

Rising above the town is the mountain of Cerro Otto. This is one of the main ski resorts of Bariloche and the summit is reached by a shiny red cable car. Out of season it’s a pricy touristy trip to the top, but worth it as the views were amazing. We ascended in the morning when the lake and town were hidden beneath a veil of fog.

Lago Nahuel Huapi somewhere under the blanket of fog.

As the sun rose the burned away and the lake slowly revealed itself and we could see for miles. Islands and inlets, snow topped mountains, villages and boats were all in our view. It was simply stunning.

The lake view revealed.

As well as the teleferico Cerro Otto is famous for its revolving restaurant which we had to try, if only for the novelty value. The lunch was nothing special but the views as we slowly turned 360 degrees were fantastic and made for a memorable experience.

Inside the revolving restaurant. It did move very slowly, took about 20 mins to go full circle.

The views on our descent back to Bariloche.

Climb to Cerro Catedral

Cerro Catedral is one of the larger hills overlooking Bariloche. The steep walk to the top is popular with both hikers and climbers hoping to scale the cathedral like peak.

We took a taxi for 40 minutes to the start of the walk, the empty ski resort of the same name. Following the signs for Refugio Frey, the climbers hut at the summit, we walked in the hot sun through woodland at the foot of the hills.

The path began to rise and we followed Lago Guitierez to our left as the trail got rockier.

After a few hours it turned sharply into a forest as we followed a stream, crossing over many bridges as the path got steeper and steeper.

We stopped to rest for a while at a small Refugio almost hidden under a huge boulder in the forest before making the final push to the summit.

Unfortunately the last few km’s were non stop climbing, much harder than the hikes we did in Torres del Paine. The sun was getting hotter, our packs heavier and are legs more tired with each step. Fortunately the scenery was stunning enough to distract us from the gruelling hike every time we stopped to catch our breath.

The trees around us and in the curved bowls of the surrounding mountains were on fire with colour. Vivid reds and orange leaves contrasted beautifully against the jagged grey rocks that crested the mountains.

Once we cleared the tree line Refugio Frey finally came into view and after four hours we knew we were almost there. We celebrated with an expensive yet oh so delicious can of ice cold coke from the Refugio tuck shop and ate our lunch by the lake Toncek at the top. Whilst we savoured the view we watched a group of climbers scale the peak of the Catedral, awestruck at their guts and skill.

The welcoming sight of Refugio Frey and lake Toncek.

Climbers looking teeny tiny as they scale Cerro Catedral.

Our lovely lakeside lunch.

Coming back down was just as tough, the steep path jarring our knees with every step. We passed a large group of children making the climb who looked just as tired as we were under the weight of their backpacks that seemed to swamp their tiny frames. Offering them encouragement we continued our descent, passing the small Refugio again in the forest.

The steep descent, still beautiful.

The park ranger in town recommended a different route back, following Lago Guitierez, and as it was such a lovely day we decided to follow her suggestion. After an hour we really wished we hadn’t! The return route was meant to provide a view of the lake and be only slightly further than returning the way we came. Unfortunately not only could we not see the lake at all during the majority of the walk, the 4km she suggested had turned into 9km. The trail passed through grassy, rocky scrub land eventually coming into a wood as the sun began to disappear.

The point we wished we had gone the other way!

The temperature rapidly dropped as we passed through the wood eventually coming to a road beside a campsite. Cold, tired and physically exhausted we slowly trudged along the road for another 2km, passing lovely, expensive lakeside houses. Night was rapidly falling as we eventually made it to a small village and the bus stop which we were so relieved and happy to see. Just as we reached the stop a bus was pulling out and we ran towards it shouting but the driver didn’t see us so we glumly waited for the next one. Eventually one came and we made the long journey back to our hostel too tired to even eat. Fortunately we had planned a day a relaxation for the following day and that’s just what we did.

Walking in Llao Llao

In order to counteract all that tempting chocolate we were eating whilst in Bariloche major exercise was needed. Fortunately there were many lovely walks in the area.

Over the course of a weekend we took a local bus along the lake to the Llao Llao peninsula. The one hour journey in itself was lovely passing through small hamlets that line the lake, getting glimpses of the glittering water through the trees.

At the end of the bus route was a huge and glamorous hotel in the most beautiful of settings, Hotel Llao Llao. It sits by the Circuito Chico road, a popular scenic driving route and from there we started the first of our two walks on the Llao Llao peninsula.

The glamorous Hotel Llao Llao from a distance.

The lake next to the hotel.

A lovely wooden church in Llao Llao.

The first walk was a short circuit to the Arrayan forest. Leaving the road we passed through woodland filled with silvery fringes plants that grew up and over the path to create a tunnel effect. The way the sunlight lit them it felt like walking through a snowy magical forest, like something from a fairy tale. The plants looked so strange and out of place here that it took us a while to realise that they were bamboo trees, all dried up and dying.

At the end of the trail was a group of Arrayan trees giving their name to the walk. Their twisted trunks were enveloped in beautiful amber coloured bark, spotted with silver.

On the return the rain began and we spotted many mushrooms nestled on fallen tree trunks as we made our way back to the shelter of the bus back to Bariloche.

The beginning of the rain.

The next day we headed back to Llao Llao to complete the second of our walks on the peninsula. This time we climbed through the forest towards the Cerro Llao Llao. The sun was shining, the birds were singing and the sky was clear and blue as we followed the path higher and higher towards the top.

Look closely and you might see a little Pigmy owl. The closest I could get with my iPhone!

From the rocky mirador we saw Lago Nahuel Huapi sparkling in the sun as we enjoyed our lunch. It was so lovely to feel the sun’s warmth after the wet week in Puerto Varas.

An hour or so later we headed back down through the beautiful forest, again to catch our bus back to Bariloche.

Chocaholics in Patagonia.

The town of Bariloche is located in an impossibly beautiful setting. Nestled on the shore of Lago Nahuel Huapi the town stretches up the hillside towards snow capped peaks. The huge lake is dotted with islands and inlets where small hamlets of pine clad houses are nestled between the trees, providing the loveliest of vistas.

The main square with its alpine style buildings.

Your typical Alpine rescue dog.

Haunting protest graffiti highlighting the people who “disappeared” under Pinochet.

It serves as the premier ski destination in South America with chair lifts snaking up the mountainsides and the chalet style buildings, snowy peaks and deep blue waters give the town the air of a European Alpine resort.

Sunset over Lago Nahuel Huapi.

A restaurant near our hostel made from cypress trees. Reminds me of Hobbiton.

Another reason for this is the tasty treat that the town is famous for. If you want to find chocolate heaven in Argentina then Bariloche is the place to come. The streets are lined with chocolate shops of all sizes, tempting you in with their delicious wares. The air even smells of chocolate! Your taste buds seem to take over your brain when in town, and not wanting to seem rude we just had to sample the varieties on offer.

The history of chocolate here is as old as the history of the first European settlers to the region in the late 19th- and early 20th- centuries. Looking for a better life they left their homes and started anew in the wilds of Patagonia. Fortunately the climate here was not too dissimilar to their home lands and with time they flourished in their new country. They brought with them their traditions which can be seen in the places names, architecture and dishes of the region. Here in Bariloche their skill in chocolate making can be traced through the Chocolate museum run by Havannah, one of the many chocolate companies in town.

Being chocoholics, we just had to visit and enjoyed the tour as much as the free tastings.

Jon very excited about our visit to the chocolate museum.

A model of a cocoa plant. We saw the real thing in the Amazon!

The Inca chocolate recipe book.

Life size animals made from 100% chocolate.

Jon enjoying the free samples…almost too much!

Wary of too much of a good thing we decided to check out the town’s other attractions, the hills and mountains so on with the hiking boots and off we went.

Some of the chocolate brands.

Mamuschka – red, Russian, matryoshka dolls logo, our favourite by far. Their truffles were amazing!

Turista – big company, like a department store. We also saw their stores in Ushuaia. Germany style with dolls dressed in lederhosen.

Rapanui – meaning Easter Island, connection with chocolate and Bariloche? No idea! Still the chocolate was nice.

Abuela Goye – means grandmother in Spanish, see cute and jolly logo. They have a rustic cafe that sells fantastic cakes too.

Giving the chocolate some love.

One of many cakes consumed during our trip!

Mountains between lakes

We left Puerto Varas in the Chilean Lake District and took a bus across the border to Bariloche in the Argentinian Lake District. This was one of the most amazing bus journeys I have ever taken. The bus first headed north to the town of Orsono then east through the national park of Puyehue.

Our luxurious bus – big reclining seats, foot rests, tea/coffee and movies. National Express get your act together!

As the bus climbed higher the forests that hugged the mountain sides became covered with snow and we journeyed through a festive winter wonderland. The views got better and better the further we climbed.

The stunning snowy winter wonderland of our journey.

We passed through Chilean customs, along with a vintage rally car tour, returned to the bus then headed off towards Argentina.

After passing through their customs the bus continued east into Argentina. The road dropped in elevation and crystal clear cobalt blue lakes bordered by conifer forests came into view. The view was simply breathtaking.

Along the route were small towns. Some were small farming villages and others were smarter ski resorts like
Villa de Angostura. Gorgeous golden pine hotels, lodges and cabañas peaked through the woods as we passed by. The crisp autumn air was changing the leaves to the colour of fire, amber and gold trees framed our view. The contrast of the bright blue lake, evergreen forest, amber leaves, silver bark and rocks was even more beautiful in the bright sunshine.

Many happy hours passed by as we reclined in our comfy seats admiring the gorgeous scenery. On the TV Avengers Assemble played, trying to distract us from the beautiful views outside. We continued to descend towards Bariloche and the landscape changed to the coarse yellow grass of the pampas, yet the snow dusted mountains were still present in the distance. Eventually the blue lake of Nahuel Huapi came into view and we reached our destination of Bariloche, eager for our next adventure.

Being Gauchos in Cochamó

One of the things I was most looking forward to doing during my time in Patagonia was to go horse riding through the beautiful scenery and experience the life of a Gaucho. Our hostel owners in Puerto Varas arranged for us to go riding with a local man who lives in Cochamó, south of Puerto Natales.

Excitedly we took a local bus and made the three hour drive to this small farming town by the fjord like waters of Estuario Reloncavi. There a friendly man named Ciro met us and took us to his house for breakfast before heading off riding for the day.

The sun rising over Orsono Volcano.

The lakeside town of Cochamó.

Ciro is a bone fide Chilean Gaucho who supplements his living taking tourists out riding through the nearby Río Cochamó valley filled with huge and ancient Alcerce trees. He and his wife Ida live in a lovely farm house beside the water. As we sat in their rustic and cosy kitchen eating freshly baked bread and local honey we admired their beautiful view of the Volcano Yates across the bay.

Ciro and Ida’s house.

It became pretty clear that we spoke basic Spanish and they spoke basic English but we got by ok with our dictionary and gestures. After checking that the horses were caballos tranquilo we got ready, packed the saddlebags with lunch and headed off for our adventure.

Jon and Ciro ready to ride.

As it was Jon’s first time on a horse Ciro lead him behind his horse for the outward leg of the journey. We trotted through the village that clung to the side of the bay, passing farms with pigs, cows and other horses. Ciro knew all the local farmers so we waved to everyone we passed shouting ‘Hola, Buenos Dias!’. During the ride we chatted with Ciro who kept checking our progress with the call of ¿Bueno? to which we enthusiastically replied ¡Bueno!

Chatting with the local farmers.

The path narrowed and we headed into the forest. Soon we were crossing rivers and climbing up narrow gorges cut into the forest floor. Some were so steep and rocky we had to hold on tight hoping the horses would make it up ok as they slipped on the wet ground.

They did of course and after crossing a fast flowing river (Río Cochamó) thigh high deep we stopped for lunch and gave the horses a well earned rest in the shade of the trees. We ate a hearty home made lunch as Ciro told us about the local wildlife and his life as a Gaucho.

Our horses resting in the shade.

The beautiful handmade wooden stirrups.

Jon having a free rein to ride home.

The return journey was just as spectacular and we admired the picture perfect scenery as we rode by. At every beautiful vista we exclaimed ‘Bonita, muy bonita!’ much to the amusement of Ciro. Coming down the steep gorge was just as tricky, especially for Jon as he now had free rein of his horse. Quite the adventure for his first time!

We passed forest clad mountains, high narrow waterfalls and houses clinging to the mountainside. It was all very Heidi-esque and simply stunning.

After dealing with a loose headstrong pony, excited to be free from its farm and trying to stop my horse from gorging on grass every time we paused we trotted on back to Cochamó town.

After saying goodbye to Ciro and Ida, and to our horses who showed their appreciation to be home by rolling in the grass we took a bus back to Puerto Varas. With happy hearts and aching legs we ate orange ice lollys on the bus whilst gazing at the volcanoes and beautiful sunset over lake Llanquihue on our way home after a perfect day.

Recommendations

Pretty Puerto Varas

After the amazing Torres del Paine we continued south to Punta Arenas for two nights then took a plane heading north to the large port of Puerto Montt. We then headed to the lakeside town of Puerto Varas. This charming town is the tourist centre of the Chilean Lake District and it’s easy to see why. Sitting on the shore of Lago Llanquihue with the perfect snow capped cone of Volcano Osorno dominatingthe town. The German influence left by the early settlers in the late 18th- and mid 19th- centuries can be seen in the wooden clad houses reminiscent of alpine chalets and the wonderful Küchen tempting taste buds in the numerous cafés.

The famous German church of Puerto Varas.

The silver lining of so much rain, rainbows!

Some striking graffiti/street art in town.

Our arrival coincided with late autumn and although the roses that decorate the streets and parks were still in bloom the sunshine had been replaced with rain. Luckily our hostel, Margouyen 2 was the perfect place to take shelter from the weather for the week.

The lovely old wooden house was built in 1930 and its wood burning stove, feather duvets, tea and coffee on tap, comfy sofa and large film collection made the rainy afternoons a real treat.

Oh to have a log burning stove…

When the rain stopped we ventured out to visit the local area. Further along the coast is the German town of Frutillar, home to a beautiful wooden theatre and cute cafes to watch the rain from.

Some friendly Patagonian gnomes.

Hmmmm, Küchen!

The Parque Nacional Vicente Perez Rosales sits at the far side of the lake and one day we took a local bus to visit the falls at Petrohué (Saltos del Rio Petrohué). Fortunately the sun was shining and we saw Orsono volcano in all its glory as well as the waterfalls.

The elusive Orsono Volcano.

A dusting of snow on the tree tops, Winter is coming.

As the water crashed into the river below we could see huge salmon swimming and splashing as they jumped through the churning water. They energy they must need to climb the ferocious water of the falls is extraordinary.

After seeing their exertion we headed back to town for a large piece of Küchen 🙂

Recommendations

Margouya2, Purísima 681, Puerto Varas

www.margouya2.com

Towering Torres del Paine – Day 4 Grey Glacier

Day 4 – Mountain Lodge Paine Grande to Mirador Glaciar Grey and back before getting the catamaran out of the park (12km, approx 3 hrs)

The time of year we were visiting Torres del Paine coincided with the end of the season which meant that the late catamaran has been withdrawn. This meant that the only boat of the day to get us out of the park left at 12.30. We really wanted to see Glacier grey so after rising early we marched along the left side of the ‘W’ to the mirador. The round trip took 3 hours and felt tough as our legs were still tired from the epic 28km hike the day before. This was the first day we properly experienced the classic Patagonian weather the park is famous for. Walking through the valley we felt the wind increase until we reached the mirador where it was so strong it knocked me off my feet! It buffeted us as if we were in a wind tunnel as we gazed at the face of Glacier Grey.

Mini blue icebergs!

Jon versus Patagonian wind

In the lake we could see bright blue icebergs broken off from the glaciers floating by. We headed back, helped along by the strong wind, to the Refugio before picking up our lunch and backpacks.

The catamaran travelled along Lago Pehoé towards Laguna Armaga at the park entrance. The weather had completely changed from the glorious sunshine we had experienced during our ‘W’ hike. Dark foreboding clouds gathered around all the mountain peaks as the wind whipped up the surface of the lake. We passed the waterfall of Salto Grande before reaching our destination.

The foreboding clouds over Los Cuernos.

At Laguna Armaga we boarded a bus heading back to Puerto Natales. As it traveled out of the park we looked back towards the Torres, taking a final view of the amazing mountains that formed the backdrop to the most amazing hike I have ever been lucky enough to complete.

Towering Torres del Paine – Day 3 Los Cuernos, French Valley to Mountain Lodge Paine Grande

Day 3 – Refugio Cuernos, up and down the Valley of the Río del Francés (French Valley) and continuing to Mountain Lodge Paine Grande (28.5km, approx 11 hours)

The third day of the ‘W’ was to be the toughest of our hikes in Torres del Paine. Not only was it the longest in distance and time but the terrain was challenging too. Fortunately the foreboding dark clouds that greeted us yesterday afternoon had blown away during the night and after a gorgeous sunrise over the Cuernos before breakfast we started the day in glorious sunshine that continued throughout the day.

For the first hour or so we continued west along Lago Nordernskjöld enjoying the beautiful colour until we reached Campemento Chileno where we left our heaviest items at the ranger hut to collect on our return.

Jon crossing one of the many bridges during our hike.

From there the trail passed through beautiful woodland, following the twisting river below as we climbed towards a rocky plateau. All around us were stunning views. We looked back towards Lago Nordernskjöld, pale in the distance, then behind us to dramatic rocky mountains decorated with small glaciers underneath piles of brilliant white snow.

In places the weight of the snow proved to be too much. We heard a loud crack as small avalanches came tumbling down the mountainside. So exciting and thrilling to see.

Avalanche!

We continued onwards and upwards through more beautiful woodland, resplendent in the rich autumn colours. I don’t think I have ever seen foliage look so pretty. The red leaves really glowed against the pale rocks and snow.

Looking back to Lago Nordernskjöld.

We reached the next marker, Campemento Britanico, the last in the French Valley before the summit. Unfortunately it was looking bare as a fire had swept through destroying the site.

The trail climbed higher and higher as we rose above the tree line. Another rocky plateau gave way to the very steep final section. I was so glad to have my walking poles today for balance as much as an extra pair of legs.

Río del Francés.

The views on our ascent to the top.

We reached the summit to be greeted by a breathtaking view. Jagged grey mountains of various shapes formed a ring around the mouth of the Valle Francés. The afternoon sun seemed to make the rocks glow and the red trees catch on fire, such was the amazing colour. We ate our lunch on top of a huge boulder taking in the wonderful view. It was definitely the highlight of the ‘W’ trek.

Panoramic views from the top.

We clambered back down the rocks towards Campemento Chileno through the lovely woodland. In spite of the stunning views to distract us our knees were so sore by the time we reached the bottom. The rocks seemed never ending and we were relieved to reach the campsite.

The rocky plateau on our way down.

After collecting our heavy items we crossed the Río del Francés and continued the trail towards our stop for the night. We still had another 7km to cover before our destination and we could feel our legs getting heavier with each step.

Views back towards the mountains as we left the French Valley.

We walked along wooden boardwalks passing over marshland. After a while the trail turned back towards the lake and climbed a ridge. From the top we looked back to see the snow capped mountains perfectly reflected in the rare mirror like surface of the Lago Pehoé.

The sun was beginning to set as we walked the final section of the trail. Green disappeared as we passed through woodland devastated by a huge fire that covered most of the left hand side of the ‘W’. Blackened and charred bark peeled off the damaged trees. It was eerily quiet. No birds were singing and it felt like the life had left this section of the park. As we looked closer though we could see new growth trying to emerge. Small yellow flowers sprang beneath the dead trees.

It was incredibly sad to learn that all this devastation had been caused by a single camper who ignored the rules about wild camping. The fierce Patagonian winds had spread their illegal fire over a huge section of the park that would take hundreds of years to recover.

After witnessing the utter carelessness and stupidity of man we felt rather gloomy as the sun began to fall below the horizon. Finally we saw the lights of the Refugio in the distance which cheered us up.

The welcoming sight of Mountain Lodge Paine Grande.

Our last view of Los Cuernos before nightfall.

After dinner we enjoyed pisco sours in the bar of Mountain Lodge Paine Grande, chatting with the other hikers who were doing the ‘W’ hike along with us. As well as the Australian sisters were three Irish guys, old friends also celebrating a significant birthday. We chatted and laughed about our travels, work and many other things whilst we rested our legs and dreamed of a good nights sleep.

Recommendations.

Mountain Lodge Paine Grande.

Large, warm, hotel like Refugio with restaurant, bar, camping facilities and shop. It has great views and is next to the Catamaran jetty and on the way to the Grey Glacier.

www.verticepatagonia.com

Towering Torres del Paine – Day 2 Torres to Cuernos

Day 2 – Refugio Torres to Refugio Los Cuernos ( 11km, approx 4.5 hrs)

Today’s shorter hike passed along side the beautiful Lago Nordernskjöld. This gorgeous stretch of water runs along the bottom of the ‘W’ bordered by rolling hills to the south and steeply rising mountains to the north.

Sign post pointing out the various trails in the park.

A sunny start to our hike.

Cows enjoying the grass and sunshine.

As we walked that morning the sun changed the colour of the water through all the shades of blue from midnight, royal to bright turquoise like the semi precious stone.

Our first view of the lake.

One of the many and very helpful markers in the park. Always nice to know many more Kms you still have to go!

A ‘UFO’ cloud that caught my eye.

The reflected mountain.

The turquiose Lago Nordernskjöld

The undulating path traveled through woods and small streams, climbing to rocky outcrops with lovely views of the lake where we stopped for lunch.

One of the many bridges we crossed on the trail.

The view from our lunch spot.

It then dropped to a sheltered pebble beach were we enjoyed the crash of the waves. As the path rose again the fabled Patagonian wind made an appearance nearly knocking us off our feet as we were taken unawares. It whipped up the water like the sea, scattering silver crested waves across the surface as we watched a small boat pass by in the distance.

Our first view of Torres del Cuernos (horns).

An hour later we saw our next home for the night the cabins at Refugio Cuernos scattered below the dark sedimentary topped granite peaks of the Cuernos (horns) of Paine. By then the wind had blown dark and heavy rain clouds into the blue sky and we donned our rain jackets for the first time of the hike.

Our cabin for the night.

Our little cabin was at the edge of the site, next to a lovely waterfall crashing onto the rocks as it made its way into the lake below.

We relaxed for the rest of the afternoon before dining in the Refugio with our fellow hikers, sharing stories, photos and travelling adventures. Later we gazed up in awe at one of the clearest skies we had ever seen. Thousands of stars were visible in the inky black sky with the Milky Way shining brightly as a band of white across the mountain peaks. We drifted to sleep soothed by the sound of the waterfall.